Paris may lack its own Soho-style drinking ghetto or quite the hedonistic vibrancy of Barcelona or Berlin but the action is out there as long as you make sure you seek out the more vibrant neighbourhoods.
Smokers beware; a smoking ban in public spaces is on its way.
Happening ‘hoods
CANAL ST MARTIN
Close to the Gare de l’Est, this buzzing little enclave offers louche café life and bar hopping opportunities along or close to the water. Highlights include the eternally popular L’Atmosphère (49 rue Lucien-Sampaix / open daily) with an elegant interior, a canal-facing terrace and ubiquitous crowds; Le Jemmapes (82 quai de Jemmapes / open daily) occupying another knockout canal-side location; and L’Ile Enchantèe (65 bd de la Villette) a DJ bar west of the canal with high ceilings, a hip young crowd that comes for the music (electro a speciality) and reasonably cheap cocktails and beer.
RUE OBERKAMPF
The closest Paris comes to London’s Soho, rue Oberkampf and a couple of neighbouring streets in République offer a frenetic concentration of bars and clubs including happening DJ bars such as La Maizon (No. 123); the noisier, more drink-sodden La Mercerie (No. 98); and the smarter, dressier, chandeliered Café Charbon (incorporating its adjoining sister club Nouveau Casino) (No. 109). All open daily until late.Bars & Pubs
LE BAR
27 rue de Condé / 01 4329 0661
Softly-lit Asian statuary, cosy leather settees and good cocktails await at this terrific, laid-back little bar occupying an outwardly obscure location at the corner of rue de Condé and rue Régnault. Open 9.30pm-til late Mon-Sat.
BAR LE FORUM
4 Boulevard Malesherbes / 01 4265 3786 / www.bar-le-forum.com
The dark wood panelling, mahogany bar and other gentleman’s club styling of this refuge from noise and bustle have hardly changed since the 1930s. The working Wurlitzer jukeboxes are an only slightly more recent addition (but the volume is kept low). Well-mixed cocktails and an extensive and well-chosen list of whiskies from around the world that is especially strong on Scotland. Open 1.30pm-2am Mon-Fri, 6.30-2am Sat.
KONG
1 rue du Pont-Neuf / 01 4039 0900
Downstairs from the delicate river-facing glass dome of the restaurant lies Kong’s bar, a pop-art fantasy of kitsch and whimsy by Philippe Starck. Fierce cocktails are dispensed to a cool, young-ish, moneyed crowd from the long bar. Open noon-late daily.
LIZARD LOUNGE
18 rue du Bourg-Tibourg / 01 4272 8134
If you really must seek out an ex-pat watering hole where you can sink a pint of lager and engage in idle pub chat, you could do far worse than the bustling, bare-brick, wood-floored Lizard Lounge. Open till late daily.
CAFÉ DE LA PAIX
Grand InterContinental, 12 bd des Capucines / 01 4007 3636
The smart, solicitous waiters move as if on castors in this convivial grand hotel café restaurant. Inside it’s all high, lavish stucco ceilings while outside on the terrace there’s a great view of Garnier’s opera house. Very civilised. Open daily.
Clubs & Live Music
LE DIVAN DU MONDE
75 rue des Martyrs / 01 4252 0246 / www.divandumonde.com
Depending on the night you could sample everything from funk, soul, reggae, electro, jazz, hip-hop and African sounds at this happening Montmartre club. Also hosts themed cinema evenings.
PETIT JOURNAL MONTPARNASSE
13 rue du Commandant-Ren-Mouchotte / 01 4321 5670/
www.petitjournal-montparnasse.com
The music policy at this intimate and friendly little dinner-and-live-floor-show venue leans towards jazz and blues but depending on the night you may also get, R&B, rock or Latin sounds. Open 7am-2am Mon-Sat.