Edinburgh

Your chances of eating well in Edinburgh have improved vastly over the last few years as an energetic tribe of local chefs makes the most of Scotland’s fantastic produce.

Some of the city’s culinary talent is on display in a new breed of casual, inventive and good value bistros and brasseries. Fine dining options are legion (and are generally more relaxed than of old too), although prices are on the high side. Apart from a sprinkling of good Indian and Italian influences, other decent international cuisine is sparsely represented. With all that wonderful local fish, game, meat and other local fare though, you may not miss it.
Price guide: Three-course dinner per head without drinks: £ £1-15 / ££ £15-30 / £££ £30-50 / ££££ £50+

Price Guide: Three-course dinner per head (food only): € under €20 / €€ - €20-35 / €€€ - €35-50 / €€€€ - over €50

Restaurants (fine dining)

DAVID BANN

56-58 St Mary’s St / 556 5888 / www.davidbann.co.uk

You don’t have to be a vegetarian to enjoy a meal at Edinburgh’s best veggie restaurant. Dishes are inventive and complex, and the influences, from the Mediterranean to India and the Far East, are diverse. The kitchen’s mastery of texture and its deft use of herb and spice is what makes it all work as in the mushroom and grilled basil polenta starter; the dosa with rice pancakes; or the mushroom, smoked cheese and ale strudel. 11am-midnight Tue-Sun. ££. E2

THE KITCHIN

78 Commercial Quay Leith / 555 1755 / www.thekitchin.com

Haute cuisine and the very best produce served by this seriously professional kitchen out in the foodie seaside neighbourhood of Leith make for a combination that’s hard to beat anywhere in Scotland. The man from Michelin awarded young chef Tom Kitchin a star in 2007 for dishes such as mackerel tartare with quails eggs, cucumber and beetroot dressing; wild salmon confit with mousseron mushrooms; and cherry clafoutis with salted almond ice cream. ££££. Leith map inset.

OLOROSO

33 Castle Street / 226 7614 / www.oloroso.co.uk

If you’re in town on a long summer evening, Oloroso’s terrace with views out to the water can’t be beat (although the rather severe modern interior lacks warmth). The mains combine fresh flavours and Scottish staples (such as turbot with orange and fennel salad with salsa verde) with the odd Asian curveball successfully included (namely the crispy pork belly with noodles and kumquat and green pepper dressing). Take the lift up from street level. Lunch & dinner daily. £££. B2

RHUBARB

Prestonfield House, Priestfield Rd / 7589 6117 / www.prestonfield.com

Revelling in unrestrained romance, opulence and bold, rather Rococo décor, Prestonfield House, is a chic little hotel occupying a plum spot overlooking Arthur’s Seat. Its restaurant Rhubarb, sustains the lavish theme with dishes such as roast squab with foie gras and figs, turbot on langoustine crushed potatoes and sweet garlic crusted cod on pea puree, attracts an A-list following including JK Rowling. Budget food this isn’t, but the quality and the singular setting largely justify the steep prices. Lunch & dinner daily. ££££. Off map E3

Casual/Brasserie Dining

ALWAYS SUNDAY

170 High St / 622 0667

A light, bright cheery spot on the Royal Mile serving light lunches, juices, smoothies, soups wraps, salads and cakes, alongside fair trade coffee. 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun. £ C2

CENTOTRE

103 George St / 225 1550 / www.centotre.com

This swish all rounder, owned by the esteemed Valvona & Crolla people, is worth seeking out pretty much any time of day. Terrific breakfast pastries, afternoon tea, fresh juices, great coffee and classic, simple Italian fare for a light lunch and dinner. There’s a spacious bar and a long wine and cocktail list too. A not-so-little gem. 8am-11pm Mon-Thu, 8am-Midnight Fri & Sat. ££ C2

THE GRAIN STORE

30 Victoria Street / 225 7635 / www.grainstore-restaurant.co.uk

Wander down the enchanting Victoria Street, and climb the stairs to this long-established restaurant. Relaxed, rustic environment, candles on the table, lots of corners and shady romantic spaces. Food is fresh, homely and Scottish with menu changing regularly but might include the likes of a torchon of foie gras with chestnuts and sourdough toast, saddle of Borders lamb with devilled kidneys and thyme or wild sea trout with almond veloute and white asparagus. £££. D3

IGLU

2b Jamaica St / 476 5333 / www.theiglu.com

Don’t be put off crossing Iglu’s threshold by its wince-inducing self-description as a ‘bar and ethical eatery’. What this actually means is seriously good food thanks to a policy of wild, organic and seasonal sourcing with as much care taken over the multiple vegetarian offerings (such as the organic beetroot and cumin lasagne) as the meat and fish (for example the lemongrass speared king scallops with chorizo risotto). Good value set lunch deals, surprisingly glam little bar and free WiFi too. Dinner Mon-Sat. £££. B1

Cafés & Afternoon Tea

CIRCLE

1 Brandon Terrace / 624 4666

Slightly out of the town centre, but a handy stop if you’re heading to the Botanical gardens. The old-fashioned space is very popular with the stylish Stockbridge crowd. The menu has imaginative daily specials for lunch, and good options throughout the day. Great cake and coffee spot, good for sitting in or out as weather and temperatures dictate. £ Off map C1

FRUITMARKET GALLERY CAFÉ

29 Market Street / 226 1843 / www.fruitmarket.co.uk

Contemporary gallery space housing a café serving excellent food, picture windows and fashionable clientele. A wide selection of salads, sandwiches and treats for lunch or anytime eating. Combines well with the art-inspired bookshop and extensive gallery space. Mon-Sat 11-5.30, Sun 12-4.30. £. D2

THE GALLERIES

National Portrait Gallery / 1 Queen Street / 557 2844

Modern Art Gallery / Belford Road / 332 8600 www.nationalgalleries.org

You’ll find top notch cafés at both these galleries. Each reflects its surroundings – bright and crisp in the Modern (off map A2), with seats outside in the sculpture garden making it ideal for sunny days. The Portrait Gallery (Map B/C2), and its legendary scones, offers a darker, atmospheric location, with warming food in historical surroundings. These are classic Edinburgh spots for lunch or snacks. Mon-Sat 10-4.30, Sun 11-430.£

PATISSERIE FLORENTIN

5 North West Circus Place / 220 0225

This is a deservedly popular coffee and patisserie spot in the morning, and reliable for salad and sandwiches for lunch and for its indulgent cake selection at any time of day. In fine weather the seats outside invite a sport of people watching on this busy corner of the New Town. £. B1