Despite the advent of some excellent swank 'style' bars, Dublin hasn't lost its love of friendly unreconstructed boozers and the Guinness is as good as ever. Slainté!
Pubs
THE FRONT LOUNGE
33, Parliament Street / 01 670 4112
This enduringly popular pub attracts a heterosexual crowd, but becomes The Back Lounge, and attracts a gay crowd if accessed from the other side of the block.
KEOGH’S PUB
9, Anne Street South / 01 677 8312
Also just off Grafton Street. Take your pint upstairs and enjoy a voyeuristic sup. Opened up to punters in the last few years, this was previously the sitting room of the infamous Mr Keogh Senior. Cigarettes and matches are still sold behind the bar!
MCDAID’S PUB
3, Harry Street / 01 679 4395
Drink where Brendan Behan came to write, a pint poised by his resident typewriter.
THE LONG HALL
51, (South Great) Georges Street / 01 475 1590
Its motley décor and mirrored bar is a must-see. The stained glass windows on the front of this pub come out in the summer time, so drinkers can see the light, and passers-by.
THE PALACE BAR
21 Fleet Street, Temple Bar / 01 677 9290
Sup your drink seated under the portraits and gazes of some of Ireland’s eminent countrymen. Great interior, with plenty of aged wood and character.
PETER’S PUB
1, Johnston's Place / 01 677 8588
This oasis remains virtually unchanged through the years, under the care of its friendly owner who is always ready for ‘a bit of chat’.
THE STAG’S HEAD
1, Dame Court / 01 679 3701
No TV, no music, just the hum of ‘ol’ fellas’ and ‘young ones’ chatting away over a pint. A haven for real Guinness drinkers.
HOGAN’S BAR
35, (South Great) Georges Street / 01 677 5904
Long popular, this pub is considered arty by those who frequent it. Nice place to take a break and read the paper on a Saturday afternoon, watching the world go by through its huge curved windows.
Bars
THE ICE BAR
Four Seasons Hotel, Simmonscourt Road, Ballsbridge / 01 665 4000
A cab ride from the centre but an über trendy place to quaff Cristale and superior cocktails. Phone ahead to reserve a table, and get the heads turning as you saunter to it.
CAFÉ EN SEINE
40, Dawson Street / 01 667 5467
Also known as Café Insane, for the mad (or madding?) crowds, who take up residence here come nightfall. A cavernous place, its elaborate mosaic interior, in a style reminiscent of Parisien Art Nouveau, merits a peek, day or night.
DICE BAR
Queen Street, off Arran Quay / 01 872 8622
A closely guarded secret by residents of this Smithfield area decorated like an East Village Bar in Manhattan. The atmosphere is laid-back and fun and the music eclectic. Micro brewed beer too. Worth the walk/cab fare.
THE MARKET BAR
14a, Fade Street / 01 613 9094
Wonderfully transformed into a chattering chasm and great space for drinking. Includes one of the few designated outdoor city center smoking areas. Ideal for a drink while waiting on a table at L’Gueleton (see Eat), across the street.
THE CLARENCE OCTAGON BAR
6-8, Wellington Quay / 01 670 9000
A cosy, convivial and suprisingly down to earth space situated within U2’s hotel in Temple Bar. A good spot for a Manhattan.
DAKOCUTSTA
9 South William Street / 01 672 7696
Lusciously comfy Mafia-esque booths, mixed with an airy, slightly colonial feel make this a pleasant place to sit and drink for a long time. Decent cocktail list.
COCOON
Unit 2, Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street / 01 679 6259
Former F1 racing driver Eddie Irvine’s very own watering hole. Cream and beige décor, with fake bake-tanned ladies to match. Peruse the creative cocktail list from the comfy sofas.
THE GEORGE
89 South Great Georges Street
A colourful interior to match the colourful crowd. One of Dublin’s most popular gay bars.
TRAFFIC
54 Middle Abbey Street / 01 873 4800
Traffic claims to be “intentionally under-designed”, yet would be a delight for the design-conscious. Beware of Traffic Jam - a student night on Thursdays. Otherwise, sophisticated older regulars occupy stools at the cosy walnut bar, enjoying eclectic cocktail creations.
Gigs
WHELAN’S LIVE
25 Wexford Street / 01 478 0766 / www.whelanslive.com
Gigs galore. Well worth checking out the website before your Dublin visit, as you may just catch a groundbreaking act (U2, Bob Geldof and the Boomtown Rats in years gone by).
TEMPLE BAR MUSIC CENTRE
Curved Street, Temple Bar / 01 670 9202 / www.tbmc.ie
Catch burgeoning talent and established entertainers at this central music venue and performance space.
JJ SMYTHS
12, Aungier Street / 01 4752565 / www.jjsmyths.com
An unassuming pub frontage conceals JJ Smyth's, hosting live Blues and Jazz music six nights a week in the house where Thomas Moore was born.
Clubs
SPIRIT
57 Middle Abbey Street / 01 877 9999 / www.spiritdublin.com
This nightclub incorporates a holistic Virtue Room, a rock section, and a dance floor bejewelled by DJ’s of international renown.
SPY & WAX
Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, South William Street / 01 677 0014
Stylishly groovy club within an impressively preserved Georgian building. Spy is a split-level boutique club and bar upstairs. Wax is downstairs and usually operates as a separate and independent club, featuring funky R’n’B, Garage and soft House tunes.
THE SUGAR CLUB
8, Lower Leeson Street / 01 678 7188 / www.thesugarclub.com
For the discerning reveller. A converted cinema, with tiered banquette seating adorned in plush velour, wood-paneled walls, and an award-winning cocktail menu. Hosts an eclectic mix of live music, including Indie Rock, Jazz, Funk, Ska, Blues and Latin. Regular DJ’s, comedy and world cinema too.
THE GLOBE & RÍ-RA
11, (South Great) Georges Street & Dame Court / 01 671 1220
After-hours The Globe pub ditches the tapas, ejects its patrons briefly, before transforming itself into a hip club. Rí-Ra is the next Irish word you should learn after ‘craic’.
LILLIE'S BORDELLO
Adam Court, Grafton Street / 01 679 9204
Long time a Dublin den of iniquity, frequented in the past by members of U2, The Corrs, Colin Farrell and Samantha Mumba. Paparazzi still prowl for after-show party sightings.
LOBBY BAR / POD / RED BOX / CRAW DADDY
Old Harcourt Street Station, Harcourt Street / 01 478 0166 / www.pod.ie
Housed within the old vaults of Dublin’s wine merchants, this complex is Clubbing Central. Craw Daddy claims a multi-ethnic music policy, the Lobby Bar is the place for pre-CrawDaddy cocktails. Red Box is a large multi-functional performance space with a capacity for up to 1000 people while POD (Place of Dance) endures, still attracting hot house DJ's, who in the past included Paul Oakenfold, Danny Rampling, Frankie Knuckles, Marshall Jefferson, Grandmaster Flash and Boy George.