Fact: Copenhagen has more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other Scandinavian city.

Eat that Stockholm! If you want to experience the Modern Scandinavian revolution, this is the place, but you will also find a sumptuous classical French influence as well as an emerging enthusiasm for more experimental cookery, some pan-Asian fusion fare, not to mention the odd seductive Italian. Standards of service are high (as are costs) but without the snootiness that can mar a meal in Paris or London.  Reservations are aften required in many of the venues listed. Note also that some close during July. For less formal (and generally cheaper) fare, see our selection of cafés below.

Price Guide: Three-course dinner per head without alcoholic drinks: $ Dkr10-150 / $$ Dkr150-350 / $$$ Dkr350-650 / $$$$ Dkr 650+

Restaurants

AURA

Rådhustræde 4 / 3336 5060 / www.restaurantaura.dk

Compact but understatedly smart, Aura’s dishes come in tapas-sized portions and borrow flavours from all around the world including Asia (tuna carpaccio with a soy glaze for instance) and the Mediterranean (grilled tuna with salsa romesco or tomato pie with aubergine puree). It’s mostly a harmonious mix and works well in the four- to fourteen-course menus. Dinner only, closed Mon. $$

ERA ORA

Overgaden Neden Vandet 33B, Christianshavn / 3254 0693 / www.era-ora.dk

Chefs Fabio and Alessandro are the kind of quality obsessive, creative geniuses you wouldn’t want to live with, but whose lavish yet sublimely delicate Umbrian-inspired food has wowed the man from Michelin, Time Out and us. This sumptuous, gold-leafed dining room is in the heart of cutesy Christianshavn, beside the canals, with a small outdoor oasis for al fresco food in summer. Ask nicely and they’ll gladly show you their 90,000-bottle wine cellar. $$$$.

FAMO

3 Saxogade / 3323 2250

Sister restaurant to Era Ora, Famo may be less glamorous but offers spectacularly good value as the crowds of enthusiastic locals flocking here can attest. The themes are the same: this is authentic Umbrian food and while the menu is fixed it won’t disappoint. Closes for part of July/Aug. $$.

FORMEL B

Vesterbrogade 182, Frederiksberg / 3325 1066 / www.formel-b.dk

With a younger clientele than some of the top end restaurants in town Formel B can boast a more happening vibe as well as some of the most accomplished cooking in the city. Only one six-course menu is on offer but it will be exquisite. Some examples: glazed rack of rabbit with foie gras or turbot with fava beans and bisque. Well matched wines with each course too. Take a taxi, it’s too far to walk. Dinner only, closed Sun. $$$$.

HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE

Hotel D’Angleterre, Kongens Nytorv / www.remmen.dk

Rich, traditional French food with some exciting twists served in classical opulence makes the D’Angleterre a fantastic place for a romantic dinner. Prices are high but not outrageous given the quality of the food and the high-end dishes replete with ingredients such as caviar, oysters and turbot. Dishes we’ve loved include crab with crispy salted pork fricassee with rosehip and a dill froth; black lobster claws with jelly of cucumber and ginger; and the side of beef with a chanterelles cassoulet and salted foie gras. $$$

LÊ LÊ

Vesterbrogade 56 / 3322 7135

Great value for money, this bright, contemporary Vietnamese/Thai restaurant serves generous bowls of noodles and curry for under Dkr100. Dinner only. Closed Tue. $.

NOMA

Strandgade 93, Christianshavn  / 3296 3297 / www.noma.dk

Chef Rene Redzepi has worked at the French Laundry, El Bulli and Le Jardin des Sens – quite some CV. At Noma his proud boast is that no tomatoes or olive oil were harmed in the production of his food. Instead, the emphasis is on the finest Nordic produce –including Greenland musk ox and high-end North Atlantic seafood such as seared lobster and wood sorrel with cauliflower and unripe elderberries. Located on the harbour front close to the new opera house, with outside dining in summer. Lunch Tue-Fri; Dinner Mon-Sat.$$$$. .

RESTAURANT KANALEN

Wilders Plads 2 / 3295 1330 / www.restaurant-kanalen.dk

The combination of a great canalside setting (with a summer terrace), endearing service and food that takes the best from French, Italian and Danish flavours (including dishes like roasted North Sea lobsters served with chanterelles and lovage or terrine de foie gras with honey brioche, stewed plums and blackberries) makes this one of the best all rounders in town. $$.

RESTAURANT PAUSTIAN

Kalkbrænderiløbskaj 2, Nordhavn / 3918 5501 /  www.restaurantpaustian.dk

This is the place for adventurous gastronauts, housed in spectacular Jørn ‘Sydney Opera House’ Utzon-designed premises, a taxi ride out of town out in the northern harbour. Chef Bo Bech is the enfant terrible of the Danish restaurant scene, whose mission is to bring Ferran Adria’s modern-molecular experimentalism to Danish palates. It’s food, but not as we know it. Closed Sun. $$$

SPISELOPPEN

Bådsmandstræde 43 / 3257 9558

In hippy dippy Christiania, this lucky dip of a restaurant employs chefs from more than a dozen nations so the menu is often surprising and eclectic. Odd but it usually works. Very good value. $.

SUSHITARIAN

Gothersgade 3 / 3392 3054 / www.sushitarian.dk

Not the most stylish sushi joint in town (that award goes to the creditable Sticks ‘n Sushi chain, with outlets on Istedgade and Nansensgade) but most definitely the tastiest sushi. In summer take away and picnic in nearby Kongens Have (the King’s Garden) by Rosenborg Castle – a sexy sunbathing spot. $. .

LES TROIS COCHONS

Værnedamsvej 10/ 3331 7055

As with Famo, Le Trois Cochons is usually rammed with locals taking advantage of the sensationally good value fare (in this case French brasserie dishes, usually seasonally based). It’s cheap because the menus are set: choose from one of two main courses (couples must share the same dish although lone diners are still welcome) and take what you’re given for appetiser and dessert. $$. Book ahead.

TYVENKOKKENHANSKONEOGHENDESELSKER

Magstræde 16 / 3316 1292 / www.tyvenkokkenhanskoneoghendeselsker.dk

Translation: The Thief, the Cook, his Wife and Her Lover, but don’t let that put you off, or the fact this cosy, 19th century town house in the heart of the historic city centre was once a brothel – this is one of the city’s most refined and sensual dining experiences. Though some of its quirkiness has been replaced with a more Michelin-pleasing, classically French approach, Tyvenkokken… has cemented its reputation among serious foodies without losing any of its unique personality. Dinner only. $$$.

UMAMI

Store Kongensgade 59 / 3338 7500

Offering Japanese food with a few French twists, this is yet another love child of London’s wildly successful Nobu (where the chef trained). Swanky and trendy, it too attracts the jet set who come to browse on dishes such as Wagyu beef tataki plus sushi and other Japanese staples. Book ahead. $$$.

VIVA

Langebrogade Kajplads 570 / 2725 0505

A great value-for-money choice (c. 400kr per head) housed aboard a ship, moored in the central harbour area of town, serving tapas-sized dishes of quite improbable creativity and quality. $$.

Cafés

Copenhagen as the ‘Paris of the North’ is a hoary old cliché but it rings true at least as far as its splendid café culture is concerned (perhaps even surpassing the City of Light these days). In this city cafés serve alcohol, most serve food (some of it to rival the best restaurants in town) and several transform into groovy DJ-bars by night. Below are the best bets for food. For cafés in which to give your dancing trousers an outing, see Party.

RESTAURANT IDA DAVIDSEN

Store Kongensgade 70 / 3391 3655 / www.idadavidsen.dk

Not a café as such, but this lunch-only, cellar smørrebrød (literally ‘buttered bread’ - the world famous Danish open sandwich) joint is famed throughout Denmark as the place to enjoy this delicacy. The eponymous Ida is queen of the open sandwich and she piles her rye high with elaborate toppings, from smoked salmon and caviar, to roast beef and horseradish. The royal family have been known to pop by – they live round the corner.

JOE & THE JUICE

Ground floor, Magasin du Nord (see Shop)

One of the few juice bars in the city. Joe & the Juice makes a good spot to loaf on colourful pouffes and take the weight off those retail-weary feet. Coffee, cake, wraps, sandwiches and other light snacks too.

KAFFE KYS

Læderstræde 7 / 3393 8599

Kys is one of the most popular cafés in town; popular with a young, hip crowd taking a break from retail therapy by day or limbering up in the evening for a night out clubbing. Serves sandwiches and has an extensive cocktail list. Opens til late (usually 2am).

KAFFE SALONEN

Peblinge Dossering / 63535 1219

Overlooking one of the city’s elegant lakes, Salonen’s floating deck, is the big draw (so it’s only for fine weather). The food is typically Copenhagen café standard (that is to say very good indeed).

LA GLACE

Skoubogade 3 / 3314 4646 / www.laglace.dk

The best cake shop in town, this historic café lies beside the main shopping street, Strøget,  and has a window display to break the resolve of the most dedicated dieter. You may have to battle for a seat with the city’s well-heeled wrinklies. Sensational hot chocolate, by the way.

CAFÉ STELLING

Gammeltorv 6 / 3332 9300

A great spot for people watching from the pavement tables overlooking Gammeltorv or in the light-flooded interior by celebrated designer Arne Jacobsen. There’s a rack of glossy magazines if you tire of ogling the attractive clientele and waiting staff. The brasserie fare is fine and it’s equally good for a coffee and something sweet.

CAFÉ WILDER

Wildersgade 56, Christianshavn / 3254 7183 / www.cafewilder.dk

Part owned by supermodel (or, as she prefers, ‘photographer’) Helena Christensen, this cosy, boho, corner café within striking distance of the hippie commune Christiania is beloved by locals. Cheap, wholesome food, wine by the glass, and a groovy clientele make it a Christianshavn must-see.

ZIRUP

Læderstræde 32 / 3391 3151 / www.azhiba.dk

An archetypal modern Scandinavian vodka bar ambience blends with an reliable Asian-influenced kitchen to create one of the city’s great café-diners. With outside seating on cutesy Læderstræde in the heart of the shopping district. Go for the full dishes rather than the snackier part of the menu which tends to be more humdrum nachos, potato wegdes and burger type fare.